Food for Thought

[#1]

Every week when my husband balances our checking account, he asks me the same question: “What did you spend so much money on?” Each week, I answer sheepishly, “Um…just groceries.” Frugality, I’m quick to admit, isn’t my strong suit—especially when it comes to food. I kid myself that it’s economical to toil over home-cooked meals rather than rely on prepared foods or takeout, but by the time I’m finished buying my organic meat and produce, hunks of artisan cheese, and that special spice that’s hand-carried on a slow boat from the outer reaches of Indonesia, a home-cooked meal at my house is not a low-budget affair.

But like everyone else’s these days, our budget needs trimming and dinner is sitting squarely on the chopping block. Picking up a weathered copy of the 1943 classic Economy for Epicures, I came across this passage in Mary Lippincott Richards Taylor’s introduction:

This is an economy menu book whose purpose is to bring high living within the reach of the low budget. It will be welcomed by all who crave a better dinner than they feel they can afford, and should especially commend itself to that great army of housekeepers who, having grown up in the tenderloin-steak, lamb-chop, Sunday-broiler tradition, must today uphold the family morale on an income that looks like a woolen shirt that was sent to the steam laundry.

Oh Mary, I thought; I do crave a better dinner than I feel I can afford.

Then I thought about the recent release, Eat Cheap but Eat Well by Charles Mattocks, otherwise known as TV's The Poor Chef. In it, Mattocks offers recipes that let you go grocery shopping on the cheap without sacrificing delicious yet pricey ingredients I've come to love (including those exotic spices). For instance, a recipe for cooking up four servings of shrimp curry for—brace yourself—$7.

Inspired by Ms. Taylor’s optimism and Mr. Mattocks' creativity, I headed off to my neighborhood butcher shop in search of inexpensive meat to satisfy my family’s hankerings without breaking the bank. I was expecting to come home with something like beef chuck for a classic stew until I spied a sign announcing organic duck legs for a mere $5.99 per pound—well within my budget. Best of all, because duck is usually reserved for fine restaurant menus, it would seem like a real treat. Wrapped in a thick, lusty layer of delicious fat, duck legs deliver far more flavor than their paltry poultry cousins. I nabbed four of them for less than $10, but the real trick was figuring out how to stretch them for multiple meals. Busting out my trusty slow cooker, I made a Ragu—a cross between a brothy stew and a hearty pasta sauce full of braised, shredded meat and veggies. Served two nights over fresh papardelle and a third over baked polenta, those four humble duck legs turned into three delicious meals for two adults and a toddler—and all for less than $20.

In future posts, I’ll continue to explore “high living within the reach of the low budget"—including capitalizing on the golden rule of cooking (fat is flavor), adding intense flavor with infused oils and vinegars, and discovering top-notch bubbly at bargain-basement prices. In the meantime, I’ll soldier on alongside that “great army of housekeepers” doing my best to uphold my family’s morale in these lean times.

Duck Ragu

1 tablespoon oil
4 duck legs, trimmed of excess fat
8 whole cloves
Salt and pepper to taste
1 large onion, diced
2 large carrots, diced
2 large stalks celery, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes or cayenne pepper
1 cup red wine
1 cup chicken broth, beef broth, or water
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes with juice

1. Press two cloves into the skin of each duck leg, then generously season legs with salt and pepper.
2. Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over high heat until the oil shimmers.
3. Add duck legs, skin side down, and cook until well browned, about 7 or 8 minutes. Turn legs over and cook until browned on the second side, about 5 minutes more.
4. Place the duck legs into the slow cooker.
   Add onion, carrots, celery and garlic to the pan and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes.
5. Stir in red pepper flakes or cayenne and cook, stirring, 1 minute more.
6. Add the vegetables, wine, broth and tomatoes to the duck legs in the slow cooker; cover and cook on high for 6 hours or until the meat is falling from the bones.*
7. Remove legs from the pot, remove and discard skin and bones. Also remove and discard the cloves if you find them. Shred the meat and return it to the pot. Taste and adjust seasoning, if necessary.

Serve over cooked pasta or polenta with freshly grated parmesan cheese.

* Instead of a slow cooker, use a large, heavy pot and cook, covered, in a 350 degree oven, for about 2 to 2 ½ hours.

Message Edited by Robin_Donovan on 08-18-2009 11:41 AM

[#2]

Hmm common practice.

Make one roast last 3 or more meals. Or Yesterdays spegetti sauce with meat, tomorrows chili.

What's important is making each meal taste different. That 2 night in a row stuff would never fly at my house.